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"The Feeling That Only Surfers Know"

"The Feeling That Only Surfers Know"

, by PTY LTDCroch AU, 1 min reading time

"The feeling that only surfers know", this sentence comes from the slogan of Billabong, a large surfing leisure brand. Although this is a commercial slogan, it emphasizes the harmonious connection with nature that surfers experience while surfing. Surfers know that it takes time to follow this great force of nature, and it takes time to master the knowledge and practice of this feeling. This is one of the reasons why surfing is unique.

When some people think of surfing, they only think of beach, sun and summer, but they are so wrong. Before the real surfing, there are bound to be many problems and difficulties, and double efforts are required. For those who think surfing is an extreme sport, it is even more wrong.

Surfing has an ancient relationship with the Polynesian indigenous people. Thousands of years ago, it has been used as a cultural and competitive recreational sport and has been favored by the Pacific coastal tribes. This historical feature distinguishes surfing from other "extreme", "outdoor", and "action-based" sports centered on young people.

If you spend more than one summer surfing and understand the history of this sport, you will understand what I mean. Surfing is an activity with a long history, and there is a unique channel between it and the future.
However, for most people, surfing started as a summer vacation entertainment, but this is not a problem!

Never give up. Although getting the feeling of a surfer is a very challenging thing, anyone can achieve this goal through hard work. Be prepared to fall off the surfboard and slide down. The most important thing is to stay calm in the water——if you are hit by a wave, don't stick your head out in shallow water. Then, you will get the courage to start all over again!

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